Amanoi: The Aman That Finally Won Me Over

I'll admit it: I've never been an Amanjunkie.

While I have always appreciated the brand's extraordinary locations and understated architecture, I've occasionally left wondering whether the experience truly justified the price. Too often, the pursuit of tranquillity has felt almost clinical, and the restrained design—however elegant—sometimes lacked the warmth and sense of indulgence I expect at this level. Then I arrived at Amanoi. Hidden deep within Vietnam's spectacular Núi Chúa National Park, the journey itself becomes part of the experience. The road grows quieter, the scenery increasingly wild, and for a while you begin to wonder whether your driver has taken a wrong turn. Then, almost without warning, Amanoi reveals itself. It's one of the most dramatic arrivals I've experienced anywhere.

The reception pavilion opens onto an elegant stone staircase that slowly draws your eyes towards the horizon. At the top, the view is breathtaking. Forested hills tumble towards the sea, the protected national park stretches endlessly into the distance, and Aman's signature architecture frames it all with remarkable restraint. Nothing competes with the landscape. Everything is designed to celebrate it. That philosophy defines the entire resort. Rather than imposing itself on nature, Amanoi seems to disappear into it. Villas are scattered discreetly across the hillside, connected by winding paths shaded beneath mature trees. Walking through the property feels less like navigating a hotel and more like discovering a series of beautifully hidden private residences. Every turn reveals another perfectly composed view.

I stayed in one of the Pool Villas, and it was here that Aman finally made complete sense to me. The villa was exceptionally spacious, beautifully proportioned and finished to an extraordinarily high standard. Traditional Vietnamese influences are evident throughout, yet nothing feels theatrical. The materials are rich, the craftsmanship impeccable and the atmosphere wonderfully calm.

Outside, the private pool seemed to merge seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. It was one of those rare places where you instinctively put your phone down—not because you're making an effort to disconnect, but because there's simply nothing more satisfying than sitting quietly and taking in the view. Throughout the resort, water plays an almost architectural role. Reflection pools mirror the surrounding trees, creating perfectly symmetrical scenes that seem carefully choreographed without ever feeling artificial. Every terrace, every pathway and every pavilion appears positioned with extraordinary precision, yet the overall effect remains entirely natural. One particular spot stayed with me long after leaving: the Cliff Pool.

Perched high above the coastline, it is quite simply one of the most beautiful hotel pools I've encountered. It's not only the pool itself, but the overwhelming sense of space, silence and perspective that makes you want to remain there for hours without doing very much at all. The dramatic cliffside 140m2 infinity pool is lined with black volcanic rock. Closer to the beach, a second pool offers a more relaxed atmosphere. While perhaps less spectacular than its hilltop counterpart, it provides an inviting setting for long lunches and lazy afternoons beside the sea. The main pavilion is equally memorable. During the afternoon, complimentary tea is served alongside freshly prepared Vietnamese delicacies. It's an understated affair—a small buffet, local sweets and a cook preparing traditional local dishes to order—but somehow it captures the spirit of the destination far better than an elaborate display ever could.

As evening falls, the atmosphere subtly changes. After spending much of the day barely encountering another guest, the restaurant comes alive. Dinner is elegant without becoming overly formal, the bar develops a gentle buzz, and the vast terrace once again steals the show as the fading light settles over the national park. If I were to offer one small criticism, it would be the cuisine itself. While consistently very good, a few dishes didn't quite reach the extraordinary standard set by the surroundings. Yet somehow, it hardly mattered. The setting, the service and the atmosphere elevated the entire experience beyond what was on the plate. 

The wellness facilities deserve special mention. Built around a tranquil lotus lake and surrounded by lush vegetation, the Aman Spa feels less like a building and more like another quiet corner of the national park. It perfectly captures what Aman has always tried to achieve: absolute serenity without unnecessary excess.

Ironically, Amanoi finally allowed me to understand Aman. Luxury here isn't about gold fittings, endless choice or theatrical service. It's about perfect proportions, flawless execution and an environment so carefully designed that every view feels almost cinematic. I've visited many extraordinary resorts over the years, but very few have left me thinking about them long after returning home. Amanoi is one of them. Not because it is the most extravagant hotel I've ever stayed in. But because it quietly changed my mind.